Flatbed Scanner Recommendations in 2025

Does the scanner work if you use it with a different computer?

Windows 11 24H2 had a bug that affected scanners. Making USB scanners undiscoverable to the OS and applications. The symptoms you describe fit that bug. That bug got resolved back in December. But it’s possible that recovering from that bug will require some additional troubleshooting.

The bug is titled “USB devices that support eSCL scan protocol may not be discoverable”. The Epson Event Manager utility makes use of the eSCL scan protocol and could trigger this bug. Some of the other older Epson utilities and third-party utilities make use of eSCL for network scanning and could trigger this bug.

If you’re running Windows 11 24H2 it is possible that is the reason your scanner is not being discovered by the OS or applications and is not working. It’s possible your scanner is actually OK and your problems are all due to a Windows 11 software bug.

I have an Epson V600 and it’s working fine in Windows 11 24H2. But I had disabled network scanning in Epson Event Manager and any other scanning utilities before this bug hit.

I use a Tiffen Q-13 color guide instead of a ruler to line up the edges and keep the scan square and lined up. The advantage of using the Q-13 color guide is that it has a gray scale guide on one side. Use the color picker in the scanning software or your photo editing software to set the white point, gray point, and black point for the scan. To adjust for color balance. It helps. But takes more time. I only do that for scans I really care about and album covers that deserve the extra attention because I think the album or cover is awesome and deserves an extra good scan.

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Both computers are running Windows 10 (still waiting for Microsoft to fix all the issues with Windows 11 before switching over to that). Windows installed drivers when I plugged in the scanner (have no idea which ones), but it didn’t communicate or warm up. But at that point I didn’t realize the USB cable connection and software was critical for the warmup. If I had played with it more and installed the proper Epson drivers, it probably would have worked (at least according to my theory I put forth above; otherwise, it just randomly stopped working and randomly started working again).

Nice tip re: the color guide, by the way.

One of the perks when buying the Epson V600 (or similar level Epson scanners) is that it comes with a download for a free version of the SilverFast SE scanning software. The SilverFast scanning software is very good with color adjustments and very good descreening (for halftone printing like on CD covers). The SilverFast scanning software is a bit confusing to learn to use, but gives very good results. Very good scanning software for photos and very good for scanning halftone images like CD covers.

Link for downloading SilverFast SE for the Epson V600: https://www.silverfast.com/show/bundle-epson/en.html
Enter the serial number for your V600 scanner and you’ll get the download.

AI is not yet ready to fix scanned cover art images. AI is not yet ready to allow someone to scan in a CD cover art image and say “fix this”. If someone does that they’re going to end up with something that looks like Salvador Dali painted the cover art.

However, if you limit the AI to only processing only specific steps of the image scanning and editing process than I think that AI will be able to help.

For example, I expect that soon AI image processing will be able to take a raw scan of a CD cover art image and allow someone to automatically fix the halftone dots. The AI will be able to automatically align the halftone dots, figure out the spacing and dot pitch. Automatically figure out the best descreening algorithm for that dot pitch and image. Automatically mask out the solid color elements like text in the image. Automatically fix the Fourier ringing artifacts that are going to be arond the solid color elements like text and the edge of the image. Automatically apply sharpening to the areas of the image that need it while not applying sharpening to areas that don’t need it. Basically doing all of the steps that an expert human editor would do to remove the halftone dots, but doing all of that instantly.

Removing the halftone dots is the fist step in scanning a good high resolution version of a CD album art. And AI can certainly help with that.

The next step is cleaning up the image. AI will be able to help with removing dust spots and hairs and printing artifacts in the scan. But actually fixing the image as a whole to fix the scanned image in one step is beyond what AI can currently do.

I expect that soon we’ll have AI tools to automatically remove halftone screening and do so optimally. And I expect we’ll have similar tools that will remove the rigning artifacts during that process in separate steps. But it will be a while before we have AI that will be able to take a raw scann and say “fix this scan” and have the AI spit out a perfect, or even acceptable, fix of a cover art scan.

Next step in the AI scan fixing toolset will be for AI being able to automatically fix the halftone printing when scanning cover art or other printed images. AI is not there yet. I expect it will be soonish. Expecting AI to be able to automatically fix a CD cover art scan in one step is still a ways off.

Over the past (nearly) two years of scanning, I’ve thought regularly about how much more automated this process could be with some decent AI. But it will probably be several years yet before there is a process decent enough, and even longer before you can trust that process 100%, or at least to be as good enough as a skilled human.

The problem is when it gets good enough most of the time and you’re breezing through scans, only to go back and notice little errors here and there. Then you go back and look at all the scans and notice many of them have some sort of problem and all have to be redone manually anyway.

In the meantime, I have some Photoshop automations and am enjoying listening to music while performing relatively mindless tasks.

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This really boils my piss, even my Plustek Opticbook which is meant to have “edge scanning” bloody doesn’t - would it be so hard to have the carraige assembly park itself just a few extra cm under the lip so that it wouldn’t cut this stuff off!

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This may be a bit off-topic , but I saw a couple of mentions of trouble aligning images and scanners not scanning the entire glass plate, so I’ll just add my two cents about that:

I have simply stopped trying to have everything aligned on the scanner, I plonk down the papers I want to scan in the middle, then use GIMP to rotate the image. That may sound like a lot of work, but with the measure tool you can quickly measure the angle of the edge of the paper, and a simple free rotate does the rest.

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All four edges of my scanner are not included. Even if “full platter” is selected for the size. It is only 2-3mm, but that is a lot when trying to be accurate with a booklet.

I used to do that. Took a few seconds per image - but that still adds up. It was especially fussy as I’d often only be a couple of degrees out on my guesswork. Which is even harder.

Now I use a real true straight edge it is so much more efficient.

Obviously a CD can’t be straight… but I have now done so many of these that I can almost exactly guess the degrees of rotation needed to some comical accuracy.

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No worries! We strayed from the original topic almost from the beginning. :smiley:

Scanner hardware recommendations turned into scanner software recommendations, which turned into scanning procedure recommendations.

It’s all good. Now it’s “How to Get the Best Scans in 2025”. :smiley:

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to be honest I love these kind of threads as it can be super helpful, it’s the reason I started the Audio Hardware Reviews/Thoughts thread as I’d sooner trust the opinion of the community than some AI written click-bait trash article.

For me my current scanners are.

Plustek OpticBook 3900
I’ve had this scanner for about 3-4 years now and I love it a lot. Some people don’t seem to like Plustek much but I haven’t got much to gripe about. I got my one “second-hand” but it came in its original packaging and looked like someone had used it maybe once or twice.

It has a CCD sensor so it works great with things that aren’t perfectly flat, and can go up to 1200dpi if you want it to (although I just stick with 600dpi for the moment).

It’s certainly not the slimmest chicken in the coop but it has a sturdiness to it that is reassuring.

My biggest gripe and dissapointment with it is that although it promises edge scanning which is useful for scanning bound books, the 6mm cut-off means that any book or magazine that prints close to the spine will have data missing. Maybe one day I can get the 4800 which has only a 2mm cut-off.

The software is pretty simple and a set and forget affair, I might however be tempted to try out some of the software options posted here.

As for results, I think they’re pretty decent all be told. Colours are accurate enough, but I like the idea of using a colour grade on the plattern to try and match things up.

Plustek OpticSlim 1180

Outside of MusicBrainz I have a need to scan larger and odd-sized documents, tired of sticthing together 4 or 5 A4 sized images together I opted to buy an A3 scanner.

Of course this means dealing with a very bulky appliance regardless, but the 1180 seemed like the best of a bad deal with its relatively low profile design.

This one I managed to buy brand new through a gift card I won, but at the time I did not fully realise the differences between CCD and CIS. The 1180 is unfortunately a CIS scanner, which means when scanning things like oversized magazine pages or newspaper, if the article isn’t perfectly flat the image becomes disorted and out of focus. With the relatively light lid on the unit, I have found that sometimes you have to keep a bit of pressure applied to ensure the article stays as flat to the plattern as possible.

As for software its much the same ordeal as the other Opticbook I own, and the results (considering its a CIS sensor) are pretty good. However I don’t think it’s a great solution all be told, and if you’re happy to have a max DPI of 800 then the A320E is likely a better option (being CCD).

Fujitsu ScanSnap S1300i
Through doing IT support nonsense for a paycheck, I often get handed retired equipment from offices and such. Most of the time these are undesirable appliances like printers or ancient VGA monitors, but sometimes you can get scanners.

One of those was the S1300i which is a really neat little device, it’s very small and portable. I guess you could say its a “document scanner” vs a normal flatbed, meaning it really only wants to scan things that are unbound and flat (although I have had so-so success in putting stapled items through it). If you’re prepared to debind things then this device is a TIME SAVER. I managed to scan a 1100 page catalogue with this in about a day, which would have likely taken me 3 days with a flat bed.

The software takes some getting used to but once set up with the profile you want its a breeze to use and can out put some really nice images.

My issue with it (and many others) are that becuase of the design, documents that may be a little delicate or damaged can get chewed up by the rollers. In the early test days I lost a few pages of a rather thin motoring magazine to it as it began to chew up the pages.

If it helps sell it, Jason Scott actually bought a much fancier ScanSnap to scan load of computer magazines he came into and he raved big time about it. Although he did modify the rollers to not be so aggressive.

Epson Perfection V200
I picked this up for £5 about 10 years ago and it was my favourite flatbed scanner. Sadly it broke after I put it down on the floor and stepped on it like an idiot, but I hope to get another one again sometime.

It was quick, the image quality was great and again it was CCD. The software also didn’t make me want to die which was a plus as Epsons printer software often brings me out in a rage (like most printer software).

I still look lovingly at these on eBay and such thinking about getting one again.

The only irritation I had was that (before I Godzilla’d it) I lost the AC adapter and they used a really odd DC jack.

Canon LiDE 300
Utter trash never again.

After a few years of owning a Canon MX925 AIO printer that I adored (it could print on CDs!), I decided to give one of their flat bed options a try. The MX925 seemed great - it was small, portable, and could run entirely off USB for power and data. It also stated that it could do 2400dpi scans.

That last part ended up being an apparent lie - no matter what I did with the awkward as hell software it would sit there and refuse to scan anything above a 600dpi image. Along with that it has a CIS sensor (which again I didn’t know about at the time) and I thought the results it gave me were pretty poopy in comparison to my dear Epson V200.

It was swiftly returned to Bezos’ Warehouse and Emporium (Amazon) and the £50 returned to me.


Thanks for coming to my TED Talk about scanners

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Updating this, so the other day an Epson Perfection V370 Photo flatbed came up at a good price on Facebook.

Seems to be a low-hours unit, the guy said he used it maybe once or twice and that was it.

This is a slightly newer version of the V200 above from what I gather, and is just as pleasing to use. Great CCD sensor and the Epson software is pretty decent too!

It’s not the slimest chicken in the world of scanners but it’s certainly a lot thinner than the Plustek I normally use.

You can see some example scans here:

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After buying a used “open box, not used Epson CCD scanner” last year I will never buy a used scanner again. The Epson’s will accumulate dust under the glass where the scanner head parks itself, looking at that area at the beginning of the scan (when the lamp turns on and warms up) can tell you to some degree on how used it is. I have gotten real good at opening the Epson’s to clean the glass underneath. Just be careful on what you buy, my unit had a lot of hours on it and it overheats.

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My (kinda old) blog post on this topic is still relevant: Recommended Scanners for Album Art Scanning – kepstin - it includes some details on different scanner technologies and tips for buying and using older scanners, even if the exact recommendations are out of date.

In general, I would recommend for most people to pick up whatever CanoScan LiDE scanner you can find cheaply. Avoid “all-in-one” printer/scanner combinations, since they often have image compression that wrecks the scan quality and can’t be disabled.

The only advantage of the “CCD” type scanners is that they can scan stuff that’s not flat against the glass - for example, they can scan through the clear plastic in Digipak releases, or scan surfaces of unusual multi-layer release containers or art.

If you scroll down to the bottom of Scanning CDs with CCD/LED scanners – kepstin I have some example images of what scans of CDs with shiny/reflective surfaces look like using different scanner technologies:


From left to right, top to bottom: CCD scanner with LED light, CCD scanner with CCFL light, CCD scanner with LED light using diffuser film, CIS scanner with LED light.

There’s also some interesting discussion in the comments of that post on a possible source for better diffusing film which isn’t prone to scratches: broken LCD display panels from old laptops or monitors!

As for me - I use either an Epson Perfection V330 or a Canon CanoScan LiDE 120 depending on what exactly I’m scanning.

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I own exactly the same scanner Canon 1240U and use xsane under Ubuntu.
Any recommendations for good quality scans and easy usage?
So far I have used 300dpi and saved as png file.
I have no experience in image manipulation, so I accept all scans as they are.

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If you can, try and go for 600dpi :slight_smile:

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Yes I would scan 600 DPI but in jpeg, not PNG (over heavy for our usage, IMO).

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I personally scan to 1200 dpi and halve the image size later. That saves you scanning artefacts while keeping file sizes reasonable (about 20 MB for a square image).

I always use png, I can’t stand jpeg and its horrible artifacts. If you must use a lossy format, use something modern like AVIF.

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I’d do 1200 dpi if I had the time to wait for those scans to complete and the massive storage space required when scanning (my scanner doesn’t natively scan to .png, only .tiff files or lossy .jpg. My initial scans at 600 dpi are more than 400 MB each. After cropping to the art size and converting to .png, I end up in the same 20 MB range for a square image. I have to manually crop the full bed scan because Epson’s autocrop doesn’t actually work. But if they were left at 1200 dpi as I’d prefer, the artwork for my music collection wouldn’t fit on my hard drives, so 600 dpi it is! I also can’t stand .jpg compression artifacts, so that wouldn’t be an option for me.

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I also chose 600dpi, mainly because my scanner works very slowly at 1200dpi. Otherwise I would probably scan at 1200dpi, as this usually results in a resolution above the print resolution.
I save the images as 90% JPEG and can’t actually detect any compression artefacts.¹

¹) my main concerns are: details (sufficient at 600dpi), dirt/scratches and colours. A slight compression saves time at the upload. :slight_smile:

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